FAQs

Avoid DIY trimming—the canvas can unravel. If resizing is essential, have a finisher rebind or border the edges professionally.

They can work, but edges may curl and stitches can snag. Use professional installation, stair rods/tape where appropriate, and a non-slip underlay.

Use suction-only modes and avoid spinning brushes or long fringe. Test a small area first and fence the rug in your robot’s app if needed.

Yes—wool works with radiant heat. Choose a pad rated for heated floors (felt/natural-rubber), and avoid PVC pads that can off-gas or mark finishes.

Usually not—the back shows canvas and tie-offs. Use a pad to protect floors instead of flipping.

Typically wool yarn stitched on cotton, linen, or jute canvas. Many modern needlepoint rugs use cotton backings; Portuguese Arraiolos examples use wool on jute/linen.

No. Hooked rugs pull loops through backing with a hook; needlepoint rugs stitch yarn through canvas (often tent/basketweave), creating a flat embroidered face.

Aubusson is woven tapestry fabric; a needlepoint rug is embroidered (stitched) onto canvas. The look can overlap, but construction and wear differ.

Absolutely—use a felt + natural-rubber pad for grip and protection. Aim for 1/8″–1/4″ thickness and trim the pad 1–2″ smaller than the rug.

Yes—UV light fades wool dyes over time. Use UV-filtering window film/curtains and rotate the rug every 3–6 months.

Minimal compared to cut-pile rugs, but some surface lint is normal early on. Gentle, frequent vacuuming reduces fuzzing.

Blot (don’t rub), then dab a mild dish-soap solution and rinse with a damp cloth. If color transfers to a white towel, stop and call a pro.