FAQs

Age, rarity of design (e.g., five-clawed imperial motifs), condition, size, dyes, and provenance; verified museum or notable collection history can dramatically increase price.

Yes—ensure the rug extends 24–30 inches beyond the table on all sides so chairs slide without catching; short to medium pile is easiest to maintain.

Let the rug be the focal point and keep adjacent upholstery neutral; echo one accent color from the rug in two or three small accessories for cohesion.

Wool-pile versions are resilient and spring back well; place a pad beneath and consider darker grounds or patterned fields to camouflage wear.

Lightly dab a hidden area with a damp white cloth; if color transfers, consult a professional cleaner and avoid DIY wet cleaning or steam.

Have it professionally cleaned first, then roll (not fold), wrap in breathable paper, and keep in a cool, dry space around 60–75°F with moderate humidity to deter moths.

Choose natural felt or felt-with-rubber for grip and cushioning; avoid low-quality PVC pads that can off-gas or stick. Trim pads 1–2 inches smaller than the rug.

Wool rugs generally work if heat is moderated and a heat-safe felt or felt-rubber pad is used; keep antiques away from strong heat and monitor for dryness.

Yes, UV light gradually weakens dyes and fibers; use window treatments, rotate regularly, and avoid placing only part of the rug in direct sun to prevent uneven fading.

Use suction-only (no beater bar), vacuum with the pile direction, and avoid catching fringes; rotate the rug every 6–12 months to even out wear and light exposure.

Wool pile on wool warps/wefts is standard for Caucasian and Tibetan types; Chinese examples may be wool (occasionally silk highlights), with cotton foundations in some later weaves.

No; many were woven circa 1900–1930, and new Tibetan dragon rugs are still produced today using wool pile and traditional motifs.