FAQs

Roll (don’t fold), wrap in breathable fabric like cotton, and store off the floor in a dry space. Add moth prevention and check the rug every 2–3 months.

It can—heat and moisture can cause dye bleed, shrinkage, or texture changes in some fine rugs. When in doubt, choose a specialist who cleans fine rugs specifically.

Blot immediately with clean, dry towels—don’t rub. Use cool water sparingly, and if color transfers or the stain persists after 1–2 gentle passes, stop and call a pro.

Wool fine rugs can be a solid choice because wool naturally resists minor soiling and rebounds well. Avoid delicate silk-only fine rugs in heavy “zoomies” zones.

Yes, especially fine wool rugs with a lower-to-medium pile. Use a pad, rotate every 6–12 months, and consider runners with patterns that disguise wear.

A thin, dense felt pad is a common choice because it adds grip and cushioning without stressing the foundation. For most rooms, aim for about 1/8″ to 1/4″ thickness.

Use suction-only or a gentle setting, and avoid strong beater bars that can fuzz the pile. Vacuum in the direction of the pile and keep passes light and consistent.

Many fine wool rugs shed at first, especially in the first 4–12 weeks. Regular vacuuming (no aggressive beater bar) usually reduces shedding over time.

On many fine rugs, fringe is the warp ends—part of the rug’s structure, not an add-on. If you can see stitching holding fringe on, it’s usually attached.

On fine rugs, the design on the back typically looks clearer and more detailed, with tighter structure. If the pattern looks fuzzy or pixelated, it’s often lower density or machine-made.

Many fine rugs use natural dyes, which can create richer, more layered color. Natural dyes can still fade with heavy sun, so UV exposure matters either way.

Kurk (kork) is a softer, finer wool often associated with higher-end rugs and a velvety hand-feel. It’s prized because it can feel plush while still wearing well.