FAQs

Nap direction and silk’s reflectivity create a “light” and “dark” side. Rotate 180° to choose the effect you prefer and to balance shading over months.

Yes—UV can fade dyes and weaken fibers. Use UV shades/film and rotate the rug; even a few hours of daily direct sun can cause noticeable fading over time.

Use suction-only (no beater bar/brush roll) once a week; vacuum in the pile direction and avoid fringes. A mesh screen over the surface can add extra protection.

No—heat and over-wetting can shrink fibers, cause dye bleed, or leave water rings. Silk rugs should be hand-washed by trained rug pros only.

Typically every 1–2 years in light traffic; sooner if soiled or exposed to pets/smoke. Rotate silk rugs every 6 months to even out wear and light exposure.

Blot immediately with a white cloth—no rubbing—using cool distilled water only. If color transfers or stains persist (wine, coffee, pet accidents), call a specialist promptly.

Avoid high-traffic hallways for silk rugs. Use durable wool or synthetic runners and keep silk for quieter corridors or walls.

It’s risky due to spills and chair friction. If you want the look, consider a wool-and-silk rug instead and use low-pile plus felt/rubber pad for smoother chair movement.

Usually no—claws snag fine pile and stains can set fast. Choose wool or performance fibers for family zones and keep silk rugs in low-risk rooms.

Quality hand-knotted silk rugs should not shed under normal care. Excess shedding often signals viscose, damage, or a manufacturing issue rather than true silk fiber.

Those usually indicate viscose/plant-based rayon, not silkworm silk. It mimics sheen but is less durable and more moisture-sensitive, so avoid high-traffic placement and wet cleaning.

Labels and reputable documentation help; in person, real silk warms when rubbed while viscose stays cool. For certainty, rely on professional tests—don’t perform burn tests at home.