FAQs

Yes—choose low/medium-pile wool for resilience and pattern camouflage. Add a quality pad to prevent slips and consider darker grounds to hide stains.

All rugs can fade. Rotate every 3 months, use UV-filtering film or shades, and keep bright areas out of direct midday sun.

Felt + natural rubber gives cushion and grip. Choose a pad 1–2 inches smaller than the rug; 1/8–1/4-inch thickness suits most rooms and door clearances.

They can. Use no-go zones or “carpet avoidance” settings, tuck or tape fringes under, and run lower suction to prevent tangles.

Yes with the right pad—choose a thin, heat-rated felt/rubber pad and avoid thick foam. Lower R-value pads transfer heat better.

Generally no for wool or hand-knotted pieces—excess water can cause dye bleed or damage backing. Spot clean, then use a professional when in doubt.

Blot spills immediately with water and mild detergent after a quick dye-stability test. For deep care, schedule professional cleaning every 12–18 months.

Some shedding is normal for the first few months. Vacuum weekly with suction-only (no beater bar), and avoid over-vacuuming to reduce fiber loss.

Wool is the classic choice—durable, naturally flame-resistant, and lanolin-rich to help repel spills. Silk accents add sheen but suit low-traffic areas.

Hand-knotted backs mirror the front and have woven fringes; tufted rugs have a canvas/latex backing. Knotted rugs can last decades; tufted pieces often 5–10 years.

New hand-tufted styles start at low hundreds; hand-knotted often run \$800–\$3,000+ for 3×5. Antique Tibetan pieces vary widely, from about \$5,000 to £30,000+ at sales.

Yes—when they’re wool designs. Real tiger skins are generally illegal to trade under CITES/ESA. If in doubt, ask sellers for written provenance and permits.